Somewhere between Izamal and Sudzal, Yucatan.

Friday, February 11, 2011

Counting Down... One Full Day Left

We're having a good time, relaxed and enjoying the last bit - happy about our great adventure and happy to go home soon.
Yesterday we went to the beach, in the amazing Sian Ka'an biosphere reserve. We played in the waves for a couple of hours, it was so much fun! We were taking it in, on this perfect Caribbean beach, miles and miles of it, with only 2 other families around. What a blessing to be able to enjoy this together, and what a great way to spend one of our last days here.

Today Tim wanted to get a shave at a barber shop that we spotted, and so we just went to town and walked around. Tim went to get his shave, the real thing... with a blade... he loved it. I took the boys for a cold beverage and when Tim came to meet us, we all went for one of our last taco meal at a little luncheria. Then we came back to the Posada, and while I decided to start packing, Tim decided to go back to town and hang out on his own.

It was about 3pm when he left, it's now 7:40. He sent me a FB message - 'met some people, going to a party to jam, will play with them tonight at 9:30 on the main strip - will come home before then to pick you up.' It would be fun, I hope the boys will be into it...

Funny how Tim gets in gear for that sort of outing less than 48 hours before our departure. Three months with pretty much all the time in the world, and it's only now that he ventures out to find musicians. Better late than never I guess! The important thing is that he followed his own comfort level, and I hope that tonight will be an amazing time for him.

So with that we're pretty much packed... yes - Tim's timing works very well on that front too - smarty pants... : )
I merrily got rid of a whole bunch of dead weight, and I think we are making it within the allowed 50lb per bag. Phew!

Now all I have to do is figure out where to drop off the rental car, and process our check-in on line. And best of all, it leaves plenty of time for another afternoon at the beach!

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Four Nights in Tulum

We arrived in Tulum at around 3:30pm, the road was good and the trip went very well. We took the highway from Merida and turned South at Valladolid. We were on these roads before and we navigate easily now. We stopped again at the pottery vendor close to Coba, I purchased a couple of pieces for my collection. Once in Tulum we made our way to Posada Yum Kin, a charming little inn behind the back streets of the town. It' a beautiful place, quiet and comfortable, big pool for the children (and us!). We have a nice suite with kitchen, and a big shady veranda with a hammock. Perfect!

I started to put the food in the cupboards, realising that I will not pack it again. Whatever we have left on Sunday morning will all stay here - and it gives me another styrofoam cooler to pack fragile items - great! No cooking tonight though... we'll find a luncheria to have a quick bite, then go to the grocery store to get some supplies for the next 3 days, and that will be all for grocery shopping. The next time I shop for food, I will be across the street from my house!

This last bit of the trip is a bit difficult for me. I have just realised a long time dream and although in many ways it marks the beginning of a very exciting phase of my life, I feel deeply moved by this experience. It has provided a lot of answers on personal matters, and shed light on a very promising road ahead. On the business front, it has given me the energy to move mountains and have tons of fun along the way. I come back home with a bounce in my step, and renewed energy that will take me a very long way ahead.

It will be interesting to see what effect it has on each of us in the coming months (and years). Tim and the boys have a very special place in their heart for Mexico, as I was hoping they would. When I come back here to work in the coming years, I hope they will want to accompany me occasionally, and re-immerse themselves.

What will we do in Tulum in the next 3 days? No idea. I'm done planning - mission accomplished. For the next 3 days, I only go with the flow!

Goodbye Yucatan

So strange to be to this point of the trip, checking out of Mérida and Yucatan this morning, only 4 nights left, I feel sad. The packing work will hide those thoughts soon enough, but right now... I wish I could stay for another month.

Yesterday was very laid back and fun, in late afternoon we went to the Museum of Anthropology and really liked it (Tim and I anyway..). The ground floor is dedicated to the Maya civilisation, with many original statues from various archeological sites of Yucatan. Beautiful pieces of jewelry, tools, and the deformed skull bones of some noble members of society. To the ancient Maya, it was aesthetically desirable to have a flat and receding forehead, so they would shape the skull in that way with helmets and other apparels. Being cross eyed was also considered beautiful, and they would place various ornaments to hang between the eyes to try to achieve that. Interesting!
The second floor is dedicated to the great Mexican revolutions, and I still could not sort them out... It displays an impressive collection of historical photographs, which left me moved and speechless. Mexican history is scared with so much hardship, and if you include the ancient history of the Maya it gets overwhelming. We purchased a book on the history of this country, it's not too big and will help me demystify Pancho Villa and the Zapata brothers, among others. Looking forward to reading it.

We went to an Indian restaurant last night, food was okay... no vibe whatsoever though. And we went to check out the serenata in Santiago park. Every Tuesday night since Valentine's day of 1984, people gather here to dance on the music of a live orchestra. It's lovely to see so many people get together and simply enjoy good company, dancing together, what a nice tradition. It's not the only one... every Thursday is in Santa-Lucia part, and there are at least two other nights of the week where this tales place in other parks. I think they know how to live these fine people of Mérida!

Okay, time to pack... about 3 to 4 hour drive ahead of us - fun going through pueblos getting there... Saludos!

Tuesday, February 8, 2011

Mérida

9am, the boys are still asleep (all three of them) and I am out in a cafe with the laptop. Nice.
I'm always the first one up, enjoying the peace and quiet, and the cool morning. I started our last load of laundry and snuck out the door. It seems that I can't take it all in, running out of energy by dinner time and unable to enjoy the evening scene in this great city. It's a wonderful place to walk for hours, and we certainly enjoy the change to an urban environment!
Yesterday we went to the public market. Actually there are a few markets side by side, and we went into the deep of it all, turning onto narrow ailes filled with fruit, or grilled fish, or the hair dressers, butchers, shoes, traditional clothing, spices and tortillas... it seems endless, like an overpopulated labyrinth of merchants, full of life. I love it. And then in the middle of it all, a wide opening with lunch counters, tables and chairs - the Mexican public market version of the food court. All Yucatan fair, with tacos, tamales, panuchos and salbutes. We sat down for awhile and savoured the food. I could see that we were all savouring the moment too, deep into the market. The boys ordered their food in Spanish and did not get startled when the waiter asked questions, they answered casually - I'm so so proud of them both!

The guys went back to the house and I walked on Paseo de Montejo - filled with glorious colonial architecture, and lined with interesting sculptures. Got home, had a cold shower and laid down. I was wiped! I still fund the energy to take Dylan to the skateboard shop though, he is getting new wheels and it will be ready this morning. Taco dinner with a roasted chicken that we bought at the market, we can't seem to have the motivation to cook anymore...

Today is our last full day in Merida. I will take Leo to the Museum of Anthropology around the corder, and walk around downtown. We are going to an Indian restaurant tonight, an artist we met on the street yesterday is showing her work there. After that I am hoping to go and enjoy the live music and dancing at the 'serenata' of Santiago Park tonight. And then... packing. Tomorrow : Back to the Caribbean coast, Tulum is our next destination.

Sunday, February 6, 2011

Our Last Sunday in Yucatan

Last night's concert ended-up being somewhat disappointing. There was no live music... The show opened with the Folkloric Ballet of Merida, who offered a few dances from the state of Veracruz. They are good dancers, but it seems like these guys are everywhere - being featured somewhere in town many times per week. Overexposure? Anyhow...
The following act was a great local singer, burlesque Mexican, she was very dramatic and funny, but she sang on pre-registered music. I still enjoyed the whole thing, they really keep at it despite some obvious financial hurdles and put on shows - good on them. It seems that this city needs to figure out a way to get musicians on stage! This is surprising, because there is a great musical tradition of Trova here. Wondering if there is a new generation picking that up, I sure hope so!

Today is our last Sunday in Yucatan. Church bells ringing, Symphony concert at noon, and I believe that the Santa-Lucia park will be filled with artisans today. The weekends are lovely in the city. People work a lot here, long hours and often 6 days per week. But on weekends, and especially on Sundays, they take the time to relax and stroll around with their spouse and children, and sweethearts walk around holding hands, it's very nice. And today, we will join in.

Saturday, February 5, 2011

8 DAYS TO DEPARTURE

Eight days left. This is surreal, I can't believe that I will be snapping into winter mode on February 13. I am thrilled about the adventure we had, and thrilled about going home and seeing my friends, but I am NOT looking forward to he cold. I admit that winter is a big nuisance to me. I can do fall and spring, but winter is something I would avoid. Fly away with the birds every year, that would be fantastic! Julie and the geese! Big sigh.

I will buy an extra bag and attempt to pack everything within the weight allowance. Quite a challenge, but I am determined. And I almost bought an Irish Harp... imagine that... if I followed my impulses I would come home with a couple of piñatas too !!!

Jeanne-Marie and family came for a quick tour of downtown Merida today. I took them to the market, through the historic centre of town, and we went for a nice little restaurant to sample some regional food. It was very nice. They are probably in Cancun by now, their flight back to Toronto leaves at 6am tomorrow (ouch!!!).

Going to see an outdoor concert tonight - Noche Mexicana. It's a series of concerts aiming at bringing other regions of Mexico to Merida. Not sure where the band is from tonight, we shall see. There is also a poetry reading just around the corner in a small cafe. The Yucatan Symphony is playing a daytime concert tomorrow as well, I really want to go - Tim and Dylan have their tickets, and I think I convinced Leo to be my date : ) There is always so much to see and do here, it's a good taste of urban life and quite a change from the past three months. Merida Blanca - 469 years old!

Time to make dinner, Saludos!

Friday, February 4, 2011

Dear Followers...

So sorry I could not blog during the past week - difficult to connect, and most of my online time was spent on business matters. I am booking meetings and preparing to hit the ground running when I come back to Toronto.

We had great company visiting this week. Jeanne-Marie and her partner Mark, and one of Dylan's best friend Alexandre arrived last Friday. The house situation turned out to be quite ridiculous... we were in a big, slick, Malibu style beach house with a pool - the only thing missing was the full time massage therapist. Oh... and Brad Pitt. It was the sweet life (a lot of that lately...).
Thank God, Mother Nature was very kind to us all week (no stinky grass either). We swam in the ocean a few times, had great meals together of course, went to shop in the public market, and did a lot of relaxing. Yes... me too! I am learning.

I also went to teach my last classes at the Telchac preschool, and left them all the other instruments I had brought from Canada and the ones I purchased here, together with a nice collection of scarves to dance, and a cd of spanish children's music. I am so so so happy about that part of the trip... Everything I was hoping for in the development of a teaching relationship in the Yucatan peninsula has happened in Telchac Puerto. The stars were lined-up and I met incredible people, was able to do my thing and make a good contribution to the learning experience of these children. And everything is in place for me to come back and do it again, and continue to grow this amazing relationship with the children of Telchac. I will be back. I also received an email from the owner of the Montessori school in Majahual, she also wants me to go back. Things are looking good.

We left the coast and arrived in Merida this afternoon (one hour drive), and settled into our little downtown house called Casa Mango. A cute two bedroom home with a small yard and a pool, in a wonderful location. We are right in the art gallery district, one block from the beautiful Paseo de Montejo (wide avenue lined with magnificent colonial mansions), and about five blocks from the historic centre (central square and cathedral). We will not need the car this week, we will walk walk walk this beautiful city - and we are thrilled!

This is also our last call for shopping. I spotted a very cool vintage clothing store just around the corner, it's on my to do list for tomorrow : )